16 hours ago
5
Anti-ageing – I know, I know. It’s a gross and futile term. I considered using another. Perhaps one of the more modern marketing slogans such as “skin longevity” or “positive age management”. But my commitment to honesty in beauty extends to not fooling myself or my reader: we all know what these terms mean, and I know which one consumers Google in their millions.
I turned 50 recently. I was and am delighted about it. To still be alive, healthy, loved and in love feels like a lottery win. I’ve no desire to return to my 20s or 30s, when I cared more, knew less and had greater insecurities around my appearance than now. I don’t believe many of us at any age wish to be mistaken for someone much younger. And yet we know that people of all ages would like to keep skin glowier, smoother, juicier, firmer and flexible for longer. It’s a fine thing to want, and I find any accusations that this signals shame and desperation around growing old to be hugely patronising and selective. If you don’t care about skin ageing, great. Carry on. If you do, the products here will help in a realistic way.
There are deliberate omissions. There are no cleansers here. Cleansing is the second most important step after sun protection. But because creams, balms and washes are on our faces so briefly, their ability to do anything lasting to skin’s ageing process is limited. Cleansing is vital to healthy skin. So the key is to do it – whichever cleanser is a pleasure to use, effective in makeup, dirt and sunscreen removal, regardless of anti-ageing claims.
Similarly, I haven’t included eye creams, which is perhaps controversial, given that brands – and consumers – believe them to be the magic bullet against signs of ageing. They aren’t. If you love them, or can’t tolerate your usual skincare around the eyes, get one. But you don’t need an eye cream if your facial products contain the right anti-ageing ingredients and can be worn comfortably all over (I know very few dermatologists who use eye creams). And no, I don’t believe any cream or serum will change the presence of loose eye bags – you’ll need to see an aesthetic doctor if that’s what is driving you crazy.
I also haven’t covered makeup because it is dependent on skin type and aesthetic preference, and because I am more appalled by the term “age appropriate” than “anti-ageing”. If one feels the urge to wear neon-pink lipstick at 50 or glittery eyeliner at 90, then one should do so. Time is finite. Enjoy it.
The best anti-ageing products and treatments
The Klira Special
Whenever a reader asks me to recommend a dermatologist for a cosmetic (rather than a health) concern, I always suggest saving the consultation fee and trying Klira in the first instance. Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, one of beauty’s most respected and revered consultant dermatologists, Klira is a service offering a thorough skin analysis (comprising 51 questions), followed by home delivery of bespoke prescription skincare, freshly made for each customer and charged monthly. All common cosmetic complaints are treated – including the signs of skin ageing – with one simple, easy-to-use cream. So, while the service isn’t cheap, it may prove more affordable than the cumulative cost of a multi-step routine using over-the-counter products.
Garnier Ambre Solaire SPF50+ sensitive advanced serum
£14 for 125ml at Look Fantastic
£20 for 125ml at Boots
Everyone needs sunscreen; no one needs to spend a fortune on it. This one is gentle enough to use on even sensitive faces and necks, but I could just as easily have chosen almost any other SPF product from the excellent and pretty affordable Garnier Ambre Solaire lineup. Elegant in texture, quick to apply and fast to absorb.
Byoma brightening toner
£9.60 at Sephora
£11.99 for 150ml at Cult Beauty
As skin matures, cell turnover slows, which can cause buildup, making it appear duller than before. Exfoliants can be extremely beneficial, but a simultaneous decrease in oil production means that some may feel too harsh and drying. This is why my exfoliating acid of choice is lactic, which moisturises as it sloughs away dead skin. This very competitively priced product fits the bill, and because it’s a toner, it won’t overcomplicate your routine with yet another serum (one is quite enough). Stroke on to skin two to three mornings a week after cleansing. And always wear sunscreen too.
Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica blue serum
£12.99 for 50ml at TK Maxx
£14 for 50ml at Superdrug
When the upper layer of your skin is hydrated, it looks smoother, plumper, healthier, younger. I adore this Korean serum, combining glycerin (a humectant that draws and holds water in the skin) and hyaluronic and polyglutamic acids to give skin of any age a youthfully juicy appearance. Suitable for any skin type – use whenever and as often as you like.
Medik8 Crystal retinal
From £45 for 30ml at Medik8
From £45 for 30ml at Cult Beauty
You’ll get bored of my mentioning them, but there can be no argument: retinoids, a class of vitamin A derivatives, are far and away the most proven ingredients (warning: not safe in pregnancy) for reducing several visible signs of ageing – including wrinkles, slackening and uneven tone. Consequently, they are still considered the gold standard in anti-ageing skincare. They haven’t always been pleasant to use, but modern derivatives such as retinaldehyde work faster, better and with less irritation than their predecessors. British brand Medik8’s Crystal Retinal range of retinaldehyde serums is, for me, the best in class. Its easy-to-understand “ladder” of concentrations makes it simple to choose the right one and climb up to suitably higher strengths as your skin becomes acclimatised and tolerant.
The Ordinary retinal 0.2% emulsion
£15.20 for 15ml at John Lewis
£15.20 for 15ml at the Ordinary
Now that retinaldehyde is overtaking the mainstream popularity of retinol, more affordable brands are adding some excellent, more democratic products to their lineups. This is a terrific serum at a great price. Try using it two to three times in the first week, and if your skin is tolerating it well (some increased dryness is normal in the short term), graduate to nightly. It should then result in increased smoothness, glow and clarity in three to four weeks.
No7 Future Renew damage reversal serum
£34.95 for 25ml at No7 beauty
£37.95 for 25ml at Boots
Although I take issue with the arguably irresponsible “Don’t regret, just reverse” slogan of this product (the prevention of sun damage isn’t just preferable, it’s vital to overall health), the AI research behind No7’s formulation does impress some dermatologists I know. It certainly ticks several boxes: patented, cutting-edge peptides, plus vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) all go together to make this a good, multipurpose daily serum for any skin type. It addresses common concerns resulting from previous sun damage, such as uneven skin tone and sunspots, lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness.
Ziip Halo nanocurrent and microcurrent facial toning device
Yes, it costs a fortune. But I am sent dozens of skin devices every year and this nanocurrent gadget is the only one in close to 30 years that’s stayed in regular use – and I bought a spare for travel. Why? Because after a four-minute treatment I see instant results that last all day – a noticeably tighter jawline and lifted cheeks and neck. I’m not convinced by any long-term claims by the manufacturers, but I feel I look better today, and that’s enough.
Mecca Cosmetica To Save Face SPF50+ brightening sun serum
£38 for 50ml at Mecca Cosmetica
The older I get, the more light I like on my face. A subtle glow without glitter, that catches the light to add lustre without shine, is hard to come by. This broad-spectrum (protecting against both UVA and UVB rays), high-protection sunscreen with niacinamide has exactly the finish I want, scattering light over past sun damage and preventing future harm. It sits beautifully under makeup and moisturises without grease (I apply it straight over my serum and don’t need a day cream, which better justifies the cost). The Australians really know how to make sunscreen.
Ultra Violette SPF50+ Future Fluid superlight mineral skinscreen
£38 for 50ml at Ultra Violette
£38 for 50ml at SpaceNK
Another superlative Aussie sunscreen – this time, a mineral one. There are several reasons why a mineral UV filter may work better than a synthetic sunscreen. Synthetic filters can make sensitive skin react, cause eye-watering and sometimes pill under makeup. People with conditions such as melasma or eczema may also find mineral filters more helpful in the long term. This new ultra-fine, almost invisible option from Ultra Violette is here to serve, minus any of the usual cons associated with mineral products, like greasy texture and an ashy white cast.
Yepoda The Glow Hero bakuchiol oil serum hybrid
£25 for 30ml at Yepoda
£26 for 30ml at Sephora
If you’re lazy, time-poor or only notionally engaged with skincare, oil is your best friend. Instantly moisturising, a good oil will make most skins look immediately more healthy and glowy. This elegant and well-priced Korean oil is light (thanks to squalane), non-greasy, and absorbs well. It contains bakuchiol, a gentle retinoid alternative with similar, if milder, benefits. Suitable for vegans.
Altruist sunscreen SPF50
£27.95 for 1 litre at Victoria Health
£27.95 for 1 litre at Amazon
Altruist was founded by dermatologists on a mission to democratise sun protection, making what is an essential part of healthcare affordable to all. The price may seem high, but this enormous litre bottle represents, millilitre for millilitre, some of the best value high-quality, broad-spectrum sunscreen on the market. Using sun protection daily is the single most important thing we can do to prevent premature skin ageing from UV. Without sunscreen, every anti-ageing skincare product is pointless.
First Aid Beauty ultra repair firming collagen cream
£39.50 for 50ml at Sephora
£39.50 for 50ml at Feel Unique
We have become so obsessed with sophisticated anti-ageing treatments that we tend to overlook one of the most important: moisturising. As we age, oil production slows and the levels of ceramides (lipids or fats) decrease, leaving most skins drier. A richer moisturiser improves comfort, smoothness and the appearance of healthy skin. The brand isn’t hugely important, but this one from First Aid Beauty packs in gentle, effective ingredients such as skin-repairing peptides, hydrating glycerin, soothing colloidal oats, multi-benefit niacinamide and moisturising ceramides and squalane. I’d ignore the collagen, having never seen any evidence that it does anything when applied topically. But there’s so much else here that it doesn’t matter.
Goodal vegan rice milk moisturising cream
£19.35 for 70ml at Korean Skincare
£20 for 70ml at Tesco
This is another ceramide-rich moisturiser, at a more affordable price, and suitable for even the most sensitive skin. Vegan friendly, simple in formula but sophisticated in texture, this extremely gentle Korean face cream is a pleasure to use – day, night or whenever skin feels dry or sore.
Beauty Pie C-Wave rejuvenating LED treatment for hands
LED masks have surged in popularity since lockdown, and they can help reduce redness and improve skin texture. But this version appeals to me and my prematurely very aged hands (because of a congenital skin condition). Expect to see some reduction in age spots, redness and crepiness in about six weeks. Remember that no gadget is worth your money if you’re not going to use it regularly, so be realistic about your commitment.
Naturium vitamin C complex serum
£22 for 30ml at SpaceNK
£22 for 30ml at Boots
It feels as though vitamin C is somewhat out of favour. I believe this owes much to the surge in popularity of Korean skincare, which tends not to be focused on active anti-ageing ingredients, but on multi-layered hydration. There’s no reason to choose between them, though. Vitamin C, in the right formula, delivers instant glow and protection against skin-ageing free radicals. It can also build collagen, the depletion of which causes skin ageing. This vitamin C serum is a great price and easy to use. Apply after cleansing each morning and before moisturiser and/or sunscreen.
Simple 10% niacinamide (vitamin B3) booster serum
£6.66 for 30ml at Boots
£9.99 for 30ml at Superdrug
Niacinamide does many useful things for all skin types, but especially maturing ones. It helps reduce large, visible pores, soften fine lines, unify skin tone, improve dullness and foster a healthy skin barrier. But there’s no need to spend money on extra niacinamide. Anything that is 5% or over is effective, while a concentration as high as 15-20% may not be tolerated well by your skin. Just add a few drops of this handy serum to whatever you fancy.
The Ordinary GF 15% solution, 30ml
£13.50 for 30ml at John Lewis
£13.50 for 30ml at Boots
When growth factors (GF) – peptides that help firm and plump maturing skin – began to appear in skincare products 14 years ago, few could afford them. Prices remained prohibitively high until recently when democratic skincare brand the Ordinary brought out its own GF product for about a tenth of the usual cost. You’d never know. I love this thin, gentle, suitable-for-anyone serum, and during a period when an unrelated allergy stopped me from using lots of active ingredients for a few months, I applied it almost daily. Gives a smoother texture and a healthy look. Among the cheapest serums in my bathroom – and it’s staying.
Paula’s Choice C15 super booster
£52 for 20ml at Paula’s Choice
£52 for 20ml at Cult Beauty
If you’d like to use vitamin C but struggle to slot it into your usual routine, this can be mixed in with your serum or moisturiser. It combines the gold standard vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid – at a good concentration – with ferulic acid and vitamin E in a stable, lightweight formula that seems to be tolerated well by all skin types.
Elizabeth Arden retinol + HPR ceramide rapid skin renewing water cream
£75 for 50ml at Boots
£77 for 50ml at Cult Beauty
For years, I applied a thick layer of bland cream on my face and neck before my retinoid, to stop sensitive areas from becoming irritated (a practice known as “buffering”). Since this light, hydrating cream launched, I’ve gone straight in neat and never looked back. It remains one of only three facial retinoids (the others are Murad Retinal ReSculpt overnight treatment and Kate Somerville Mega-A skin transforming serum) I can slather around my eyes and on my neck with no ill effects. One of my most popular recommendations in recent years, according to your messages.
Medik8 bakuchiol peptides
£55 for 30ml at Sephora
£55 for 30ml at Medik8
I’m often asked by habitual retinol users for a safe alternative in pregnancy, and I usually suggest this. It is gentle, moisturising and delivers peptides, which send communicating signals to skin cells, telling them to perform specific actions depending on which of the almost infinite number of peptide combinations are present. The peptides here support even skin tone (melanin production can go haywire during pregnancy), and the bakuchiol smooths wrinkles. It should be noted that while British dermatologists are generally happy for bakuchiol to be used in pregnancy, your doctor may not be, especially if they are in the US, where advice is more cautious. The same applies to (non-pregnancy-safe) retinoids during breastfeeding: it’s typically a “yes, carry on” from dermatologists in the UK, a “no, better not” in the US. So speak to your doctor if you’re worried.
Beauty Pie Super retinol hand cream
If you’re keen to address sun damage, age spots and other signs of ageing on your hands, deploy the same effective ingredients found in your facial skincare. This overnight hand treatment delivers encapsulated retinol and cushions it in rich, moisturising shea butter to deliver short- and long-term benefits in one dollop. Apply before bed.
Go-To Very Amazing retinal
Another retinoid (yes, I know), but this one is notable for several reasons. If you don’t fancy a prescription subscription – such as Skin+Me, Dermatica (both great) or Klira (see above) – this is the most potent retinoid (0.25%) available over the counter (or, in this case, online). The serum is a one-and-done night treatment (hallelujah) containing firming peptides, niacinamide for a more even skin tone and several soothing ingredients – just apply after cleansing and head to bed. Retinal is less likely to cause irritation than retinol, but nonetheless, this one is of such a high concentration that only seasoned retinoid users should use it.
Toxin injections
I don’t get filler (although I have tried it in the past), I’ve had no facial cosmetic surgery – unless you count my earlobes 25-odd years ago – I simply can’t be bothered with lasers, ultrasound or microneedling, and I rarely have time for facials. But I do get Botox injections every five months with Dr Wassim Taktouk, and I’ve no intention of stopping. Love them or hate them – what you do or don’t choose to do to your own face is no one’s business but your own – toxin injections, when administered by an experienced, qualified professional, are the most effective way to relax deeper wrinkles, remove frown lines and lift moderately drooping eyes. I say this not to encourage anyone to get Botox unless they want to, but to let you know that nothing in a bottle, jar or tube will have the same effect – and if you see any marketing claim to the contrary, do not proceed to checkout. What Botox never does is improve the quality of skin. That’s where good skincare comes in, and why I would always prioritise that over any jab.
Murad Vita-C glycolic serum
£70.40 for 30ml at Debenhams
£88 for 30ml at M&S
I have a strong aversion to multi-serum routines – I don’t have the time in the morning or the inclination at night. This multipurpose serum provides heaps of bang for your (admittedly, not inconsiderable) buck. Glycolic acid gives glow to dull skin, vitamin C provides antioxidant protection and promotes a more even skin tone, while glycerin – my favourite humectant – provides stacks of plumping hydration and comfort. One of my all-time most used products and a staple in my travel bag. Apply in the morning, before sunscreen.
The Inkey List ectoin hydro-barrier serum
£15 for 30ml at Beauty Bay
£15 for 30ml at Sephora
I’ve always said it: there is little more ageing to the skin than inflammation, so it’s important not to overdo active ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, which in high concentrations and quantities can cause irritation and redness. More is not always better. For times when you’ve been overzealous, restoring a comfortable, moist and protected skin barrier is key. This fairly priced serum can be used every day on dehydrated, sensitive skin, or as a course when otherwise calm skin flares up during a mild illness or in extreme temperatures.
L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser tri-peptides age-correcting serum
£31.99 for 30ml at Boots
£31.99 for 30ml at Look Fantastic
If you’re looking for a multipurpose serum, after which you can forget about the whole thing, this is a great option. It’s got an evidenced tri-peptide complex to soften lines and wrinkles, vitamin C for glow and pigmentation, and hyaluronic acid for plumping hydration. It’s all there in one easy-to-apply serum, to be slotted in between cleansing and moisturising.
Dr Jart+ Ceramidin ectoin-infused cream
£56 for 50ml at Boots
£54 for 50ml at Space NK
“Buttery” is an adjective that’s overused when it comes to cosmetics, but in this instance it’s accurate. This very thick, rich and yet somehow non-greasy face cream contains the same soothing, hydrating ectoin (an amino acid derivative that’s proved effective in calming inflamed and dehydrated skin) as the Inkey List serum above and can be layered over the top or worn with your usual skincare as a gentle buffer. Nonirritating, cosseting and soft, it’s like a hug for your rattled skin barrier. Surprisingly, all this still works well as a makeup base.
Dove Body Love Pro-Age Care body lotion
£7.99 for 400ml at Boots
£7.99 for 400ml at Superdrug
I love everything about this affordable, easily absorbed body lotion, which is suitable for all skin types. Lactic acid sloughs away dead skin on limbs made flaky or ashy by slower cell turnover, niacinamide promotes healthy skin beneath, and glycerin hydrates skin back to plump, glowy health. It leaves skin smooth to the touch. I get through gallons of the stuff, especially in T-shirts‑and‑shorts season.
Don’t forget your smile
I strongly believe that restoring, straightening and whitening one’s ageing, often wonky teeth is the most valuable “anti-ageing” treatment available – more so than any skin treatment, injection or facial surgery. Healthy-looking, appealing teeth boost confidence, encourage wide smiling, and can restore lost structure to a maturing face. Just one course of whitening can take years off. I went (at my own expense) to the abc Smile in London for my makeover, but there are now excellent, relatively affordable cosmetic dentistry and implant clinics in every town.
Prices vary according to location, treatment and method.
