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There was never any sourdough at the village bakery in Maiden Newton, Dorset; just traditional, no-frills British products such as white tin loaves, pasties, doughnuts, rock cakes and the most incredible lardy cake. Sadly, it’s closed now, but the memory of that lardy cake lives on.
Lardy cake
Lardy cake is not for the faint-hearted: it’s rich, indulgent and unapologetically full of fat, making it a great filler after some really hard graft. It’s a hugely nostalgic British pastry that turns the humblest of ingredients into the ultimate, satiating treat. Traditionally made with rendered pork fat, sugar and dried fruit, it’s a great way to use up lard, an ingredient that has fallen out of favour but has long been prized for its flavour and versatility. I see lardy cake as a mix between a currant bun, eccles cake and pain au raisin, but just a whole lot more rustic.
Lard was once a staple in British baking, used for its crisping qualities in everything from pastry to yorkshire puddings. If you roast a joint of pork, don’t let the rendered fat go to waste. Instead, pour it into a jar, then carefully pass it through a fine sieve, to remove any bits and pieces. Seal and store in the fridge until needed.
This method for making lardy cake follows a similar technique to laminated doughs such as puff pastry by layering lard, sugar and fruit into a yeasted dough. The result is sticky, golden and deeply caramelised, and best enjoyed in thick slices with a strong cup of tea.
250g strong white flour, or wholemeal bread flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp fast-action dried yeast
125g lard, plus extra for greasing
100g soft light brown sugar
150g mixed dried fruit (currants, sultanas, candied peel)
1 tsp mixed spice (optional)
In a large bowl, combine flour and yeast. Melt 25g of lard, then mix it into the flour with 150g water to make a dough. Knead for 10 minutes, until smooth, then cover and set aside to rise for an hour.
Meanwhile, get ready the filling ingredients – that is, the remaining lard, the sugar and dried fruit, plus the mixed spice, if using. The lard should be soft but not warm. Roll out the dough into a large rectangle on a lightly floured surface. Dab half the lard over two-thirds of the dough, smear it on to the dough, then sprinkle with half of the sugar, dried fruit and mixed spice, if using. Fold the clean third of dough over half of the filled section, then fold the remaining filled section up and over the top. Chill for 15 minutes, then roll out into a large rectangle again and repeat with the remaining fillings.
Grease a 20cm tin or enamel dish with lard, put the dough inside, cover and leave to prove in a warm place for about two hours, or until almost doubled in size.
Heat the oven to 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½. Set the tin directly over a medium heat on the hob and leave to cook for five minutes, until the base starts to bubble and brown. Transfer to the hot oven and bake for 40 minutes, until golden brown and caramelised. Leave to cool in the tin before serving.
