5 hours ago
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Celery divides people, perhaps because most of us are introduced to it in the form of batons dipped into hummus, which I don’t feel is its best form. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy raw celery – it has an earthy pepperiness that I find quite moreish – but I adore it in cooked form, especially with soy and garlic, and today’s recipe is a take on a wok-fried celery dish that we often eat at large banquets in Malaysia. But first, a silky, fragrant curry with tender baby aubergines and a golden coconut base that’s perfect with hot steamed rice and a scattering of fresh herbs. These baby purple aubergines are perfect for one person, and hold their structure well in a curry. I adore them.
Yellow curry with baby aubergine (pictured top)
This is more for a day when I’m pottering around – the paste seems a bit laborious, but I don’t believe that cooking for yourself always needs to be quick; love and care and time can also be put into the process, especially when you get this golden, rich and nourishing curry at the end.
Prep 20 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 1
200ml coconut milk
1 tbsp coconut oil
3 baby aubergines, cut into 4cm chunks
4–5 curry leaves
¼ tsp ground turmeric
½ tbsp fish sauce
Juice of ¼ lime, or to taste
½ tsp palm sugar, or brown sugar
1 pinch of salt
¼ tsp MSG (optional, but lovely)
For the paste
1 small shallot, peeled and chopped
1 small thumb of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped (about 1 tsp)
1 small thumb of galangal, chopped (about 1 tsp)
½ stalk lemongrass, tender part only, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
1 dried red chilli, soaked in hot water for 10 minutes, drained and chopped
1 small fresh red chilli, chopped
¼ tsp belacan (shrimp paste), dry toasted until crumblyTo serve
Steamed jasmine rice
Dill sprigs
Crispy garlic (optional)
Put all the paste ingredients in a blender and blitz to a rough paste; if need be, add a splash of water to help it along.
In a small pan, reduce the coconut milk on a low-medium heat until it thickens and starts to split slightly – this will help bring out its natural oils and sweetness. In a second pan, heat a little coconut oil, then fry the aubergines in batches until golden and soft. Transfer to a rack or plate lined with paper towel to drain any excess oil.
In the same pan, fry the curry leaves in a touch of oil until they start to pop, then add the paste and cook gently on a medium heat, stirring continuously, for five to seven minutes, until fragrant and the oil begins to split – this is when the magic happens. Add the turmeric and fry for another 30 seconds.
Stir in the reduced coconut milk, season with the fish sauce, lime juice, a little sugar, salt and MSG, if using, then taste and adjust until it hits that beautiful balance of salty, sweet, sour and creamy. Return the aubergines to the pan and simmer for a few minutes so they soak up all that rich flavour. Serve with steamed jasmine rice and topped with fresh dill and crispy garlic.
Chinese-style spicy garlic celery
Once you get the knack of the timings, you can switch up the flavourings to whatever you fancy; if you want a more floral version, say, add some fried ginger. Again, this is a dish bursting with flavour and something I make for myself when I need something green with a satisfying crunch.
Prep 10 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 1
2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
3 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp white sugar
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 bunch celery, sliced on an angle
5 garlic cloves, peeled and finely diced
1 tsp cornflour, mixed with 3 tbsp water to make a paste
Salt and white pepper
1 tsp Malaysian crispy prawn chilli, or crispy chilli oil
In a small bowl, mix the rice wine, soy sauce and sugar.
Put the vegetable oil in a wok on a high heat, then add the celery and stir-fry for a minute, until a little translucent. Add the garlic and stir-fry for two to three minutes, until fragrant, then add the rice wine, soy and sugar mixture, followed by the cornflour paste, and stir-fry until everything thickens slightly and all the flavours come together. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and ground white pepper.
Finally, stir in the crispy prawn chilli or crispy chilli oil, make a few final tosses, then serve piping hot.
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The Chinese-style spicy garlic celery is an edited extract from Sama Sama: Comfort Food from my Malaysian-Scottish Kitchen, by Julie Lin, published by Ebury at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, visit guardianbookshop.com
