​My coastal road trip confirms that seaside ​food ​still ​beats ​fine ​dining

There are few things more powerful than the smell of salt, vinegar and hot oil carried on a sea breeze. Or sugar-coated doughnuts, still warm in a grease-stained paper bag. Such distinctly British perfumes are the smell of my summer, because my family and I are road-tripping through the UK and Ireland. We are embracing as much of coastline as we can, while battling seagulls and unpredictable weather along the way. And, unlike the carefully curated dining experiences we seek on holidays abroad, seaside food has always been wonderfully simple. It is rarely elegant, but it is pure comfort and nostalgia.

First up, fish and chips, in my opinion, they remain the undisputed king of Britain’s coastal cuisine. Every seaside town insists that theirs is the best (so far, the finest I’ve tried were in Yorkshire, but I am prepared for that to change on this holiday). If you are at home this summer, or not near a British seaside, you can, of course, have a go at making your own. Tim Hughes’s and Felicity Cloake’s recipes are as authentic as they come, along with a crisp beer batter for firm white fish. For a slight twist, Yotam Ottolenghi’s fish and spiced sweet potato chips is an excellent, inspired dish. Either way, all options deliver.

Squidgy with jam … Benjamina Ebuehi’s strawberry custard doughnuts. Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian

Next on my list of seaside classics is a paper bag of hot doughnuts and a 99 Flake ice-cream. I quite enjoy making my own doughnuts – it’s a fun activity for a quiet afternoon – but the ones I make at home will never be in the same realm as the seaside ones. Mine are often fluffy, squidgy buns filled with a piped custard or seasonal jam; a bit like Benjamina Ebuehi’s strawberry and custard doughnuts or Felicity Cloake’s perfect jam doughnuts. And, the chances are that you won’t be able to recreate a classic ice-cream to hold the Flake unless you have a snazzy machine. Still, there are excellent no-churn methods; consider Yotam’s recipe or this strawberry ice-cream from Tom Hunt. Other nostalgic ice-cream puds include: cherry sundaes and banana splits, and these by Helen Graves are perfect make-at-home versions that will make you feel like a kid again.

And let’s not forget other notable seaside classics such as a simple, tender and sweet crab sandwich, ideally eaten somewhere along the south-west coast. Polystyrene cups of cockles and whelks eaten with a toothpick. And treats such as fluorescent rock and sticks coated in a cloud of tooth-achingly sweet candyfloss. Not something you might eat day-to-day, but on a cold, windswept British beach? They’re a necessity. And, if you ask me, they all beat Michelin-starred meals.

My week in food

Make it at home or move to Greece … Georgina Hayden’s one-pan moussaka. Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian

Odysea’s odyssey | While the world goes nuts for the blockbuster film, I’m excited finally to get my hands on Greek Odysea: Flavours of Greece from Pantry to Plate. Written by the family behind the much-loved food brand Odysea, this cookbook is a glimpse into founder Panayis’s childhood, recipes from his mother and family, and stories of the small-scale producers whose ingredients shape every dish. It will make you want to spend the day lovingly making a moussaka (or move to Greece).

Heard it here first | Every parent knows that even the most restaurant-accustomed child has a time limit on how long they’ll sit still for – because delicious food and sticker books will get you only so far. But a recent visit to Heard, a small chain in London, proved a huge hit for all of us: incredible burgers from Michelin-starred chef Jordan Bailey for the adults, and the same excellent components for the kids. The Heard mini makers set-up is a pick’n’mix burger, all lined up on a tray, complete with mini tongs, squeezy bottles of sauce and a little salt shaker filled with a tomato powder to sprinkle on chips (my girls’ favourite).

Noodles, now | There are a few pantry staples that I swear by, and instant noodles are one of them. So, I was intrigued when I came across Chilli Chan’s in a local deli, not least because the packaging is fresh and hopeful, as is the story behind them. Having tasted the XO mushroom knife cut noodles and spicy Mala varieties, I can confirm that they’re delicious.