3 weeks ago
19
Great food doesn’t need to be complicated. These recipes are wonderful on their own, but even better with some flatbread on the side. Charred aubergine is such a classic way to cook this vegetable, and popular in so many countries across the eastern Mediterranean, Middle East and south-east Asia. The cooked flesh cooks beautifully and holds a wonderful smokiness that really imparts itself into the dip, adding extra depth. Koftas, meanwhile, are always crowd-pleasing for kids and adults alike, and the harissa yoghurt and burnt orange really complement the spice. Both are perfect as a main meal or as part of a bigger feast for sharing.
Lamb kofta patties with yoghurt and burnt orange (pictured top)
I don’t think I could ever tire of eating koftas. They are very much my favourite kind of kebab, because they are more manageable and less messy to eat, so you can consume as many as you like! Plus, they are cheap and cheerful to make and feed a crowd. This is more of a complete dish than my usual kofta recipes, and one I have served at my supperclubs over the years that has proved to be very popular.
Prep 10 min
Cook 45 min
Makes 16
2 oranges
500g minced lamb (20% fat)
1 small onion, peeled and minced, juices drained
3 fat garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 heaped tsp ground cumin
1 heaped tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp pul biber chilli flakes
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
30g fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
30g fresh coriander, finely chopped
Flaky sea salt and black pepper
Olive oil, for frying
For the yoghurt
250g thick greek yoghurt, at room temperature
1 heaped tsp ground coriander
1 heaped tsp dried mint
Olive oil
2 heaped tbsp runny honey
1 heaped tbsp rose harissa
Cut a disc of peel off the top and base of each orange, then, working from the top of the fruit downwards, cut away the remaining peel and pith in strips, just enough to expose the flesh. Cut each orange widthways into four and then into half-moons (you will need 16 of them, or one per kofta), then reserve the juices from the chopping board.
Char the orange pieces in a dry frying pan over a high heat for a minute on each side (or blowtorch them).
Mix the yoghurt with the ground coriander, mint and a light drizzle of olive oil, then season well. In a separate bowl, mix the honey, harissa and the reserved orange juice.
Put the lamb, onion, garlic, spices, bicarb and herbs in a large bowl and season generously. Using your hands, work the ingredients for a few minutes, until you have a smooth, evenly combined paste. Divide the lamb mix into 16 equal portions, roll each into a ball, then gently press and flatten into patties about the thickness of a finger.
Put a large frying pan on a medium-high heat, drizzle in a little olive oil, then fry the patties, in batches if need be, for four to five minutes on each side, until nicely browned all over and cooked through (cut one open to check).
Spread the yoghurt over a serving plate, lay the koftas on top and add the charred orange pieces. Drizzle over the honey and harissa mix, then serve immediately.
Smoked aubergine salad with pickled chillies and feta
Smoked aubergines are one of the most special dishes from the Middle East and Asia (Thai and Burmese cooking traditions also feature smoked aubergine dishes): the kiss of fire really does make things taste better. This is a lovely dish, but less of a dip and more of a salad, finished with creamy feta and those all-important pickled chillies that I love. It makes a great addition to any meal or serve on its own.
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 6
4 large aubergines
100g feta, crumbled
3 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced
20g fresh coriander, finely chopped, some reserved to garnish
20g dill, finely chopped, some reserved to garnish
150g thick greek yoghurt
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 unwaxed lemon
1 heaped tsp ground cumin
1 heaped tsp paprika
1 heaped tsp dried mint
2–3 pickled red chillies, thinly sliced
Olive oil, for drizzling
Flaky sea salt and black pepper
Warmed pitta breads, to serve
Char the aubergines whole over the open flame of a gas hob or on a barbecue, using tongs to rotate them, until the skin is burnt and blistered and the flesh has collapsed, then leave to cool.
Once cool enough to handle, hold the stalk end, make an incision down one side of each aubergine without cutting all the way through, then open it out. Scoop out every little bit of flesh into a sieve, discard the skins, then drain off any excess liquid. Finely chop the flesh and put it in a bowl.
Add half the feta and all the remaining ingredients except the pickled chillies and olive oil, season generously, then mix well (don’t overwork the mixture into a complete puree because you want to maintain some texture). Check and adjust the seasoning as desired.
Spread the aubergine mixture across a large plate, then scatter over the remaining feta. Sprinkle with the pickled chillies and reserved fresh herbs, drizzle with olive oil and serve with warmed pittas.
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These recipes are edited extracts from Persiana Easy by Sabrina Ghayour, published by Mitchell Beazley at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, visit guardianbookshop.com
