5 hours ago
6
My mum always says our love of pasta comes from the noodle culture we grew up with, and she’s spot on. Sometimes, I crave a buttery bowl of carbs, but one that’s layered with the bold, fishy flavours of Malaysia. This bucatini with prawns is one of my favourite meals when no one is watching. And when I’m short on time but craving squidgy carbs tangled with spiced lamb mince, the cuminy noodles are my self-loving pleasure. Completely incorrect in its origins, but undeniably delicious.
Absolutely not ‘ground cumin lamb noodles’ (pictured top)
I’m heinously using torn lasagne sheets as a quick fix for the gloriously thick, chewy ribbons of noodles that I adore (especially the cumin-heavy ones from Noodle and Beer in London).
Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 1
150g lamb mince
1½ tsp ground cumin
A pinch of MSG
1½ tsp pul biber, or aleppo pepper or mild chilli flakes
Salt
4 dried lasagne sheets
Vegetable oil
3-4 Sichuan peppercorns
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
½ thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and minced
1 tbsp light soy sauce
½ tbsp dark soy sauce
1 tbsp Chinkiang black vinegar
½ tsp sugar
1 tsp chilli bean paste – doubanjiang or similar
2–3 stalks choi sum, cut into 3-4cm chunks
To serve
Crispy chilli oil
Toasted sesame seeds
1 sprig coriander, leaves chopped
In a bowl, mix the lamb with a teaspoon of ground cumin, the MSG and a teaspoon of pul biber, then set aside.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Break the lasagne into rough shards and cook according to the packet instructions, until al dente. Reserve a splash of the pasta cooking water, then drain.
Heat a tablespoon of vegetable oil in a wok or deep frying pan, then add the Sichuan peppercorns and fry until fragrant and just popping. Add the lamb mince mix and fry on a medium-high heat until deeply browned and crisp at the edges; if the mix looks a little dry, add a touch more oil.
Stir in the garlic and ginger, fry until soft and fragrant, then add the cooked lasagne pieces and toss well to separate. Stir through both soy sauces, vinegar and sugar, and add a splash of the reserved pasta water if it’s looking dry – it should be glossy and saucy, but not soupy.
Add the chilli bean paste and the remaining cumin and pul biber. Stir to coat the noodles, then toss in the choi sum and cook for a minute or so, until it just wilts and turns bright green. Adjust the seasoning to taste, adding chilli oil if you want it spicier (though I always put it on top when serving).
Serve hot, topped with toasted sesame seeds and fresh coriander, and with chilli oil to taste.
Butter sambal bucatini with prawns
Prep 5 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 1
150g dried bucatini
Salt
6 shell-on prawns
30g cold diced butter
2–3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
1 tbsp sambal belacan, or sambal ikan bilis, plus extra to serve
½ tsp chicken stock powder
½ tsp MSG
Lemon juice, to taste
2 tbsp double cream
3 tbsp grated pecorino
1-2 sprigs fresh dill, to garnish
Cook the pasta in boiling salted water for about eight minutes, until al dente, then drain, reserving some of pasta cooking water.
Meanwhile, season the prawns with salt. In a wok or deep frying pan, melt a tablespoon of the butter, then add the prawns, garlic and sambal (or more, to taste), toss and fry for a couple of minutes, until the prawns are just cooked, then tip into a bowl.
Add the stock powder, MSG, a squeeze of lemon juice and a pinch of salt to the wok, gradually whisk in the remaining cold cubed butter, until you’ve got a glossy emulsion, then stir in the cream.
Toss the drained pasta into the sauce with a splash of the reserved pasta cooking water, stir through most of the pecorino (save some for serving) and season to taste.
Serve in a deep bowl topped with the prawns, a scattering of dill, the reserved cheese and extra sambal on top.
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Sama Sama: Comfort Food from my Malaysian-Scottish Kitchen, by Julie Lin, is published next week by Ebury Press at £28. To order a copy, visit guardianbookshop.com
