Avoid the White Lotus effect: Thailand travel without the tourists

Much like the problems of the show’s deplorable characters, the White Lotus effect cannot be escaped. After writer-director Mike White’s second season of the black comedy was released, tourists flooded its Sicilian coastal setting of Taormina, and its luxe backdrop of the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace was booked out for six months straight post-filming.

The new season of The White Lotus is upon us, or rather it’s upon Thailand. Hundreds of thousands of tourists are expected to descend on the paradisiacal setting of Koh Samui, while cashed up guests at the island’s Four Seasons are already requesting upgrades to the $10,000 a night villas featured in the show. For a country that already struggles with overtourism, Thailand is bracing for impact. Local environmentalists are feeling uneasy, and quite rightly too – the Thai government closed Maya Bay on Koh Phi Phi for four years in 2018 after boat anchors and propellers, sunscreen contaminants and sewerage destroyed the corals and marine life off the white-sand bay after it went mainstream with 1999 movie The Beach.

You’re not going to find ultra luxury suites on Koh Phayam, but everything you need for a beach holiday is here. Photograph: Leigh Griffiths

But thankfully there’s more of Thailand to explore, in fact there’s more than 3,000 kilometres of coastline and 1,430 islands. While these destinations don’t have five-star resorts, and often require a trek to get to, you won’t have to fight another traveller for a sunbed when you get there – and that’s real value.

For an island escape: Koh Phayam

There are no cars on this tiny island, so once you’ve made the 75-minute flight to the southern city of Ranong, a short minivan ride from the airport to the pier, and a 35-minute speedboat to the island, you’ll have to rent a motorbike or hire a tuk tuk to get to your accommodation.

The view from Wat Phra That Khao Noi, a hilltop temple with a 9m-tall Buddha blessing the city of Nan. Photograph: Leigh Griffiths

The long journey puts most tourists off, but those that stick with it will be rewarded. The lack of cars offers a sleepier vibe and you’ll have the white-sand, aquamarine beaches to yourself. Let’s be clear: if you expect butlers at your accommodation and luxury spas at your fingertips, you’re not going to find it here. But everything you need for a relaxing island experience is: cheap Thai massages; fresh seafood; hidden beaches at every corner; cute beach bungalow accommodation; incredible snorkelling to the Surin Islands marine park, a boat ride away; plus glowing sunsets over the Andaman Sea from Hippy Bar, a drinking hole made of salvaged driftwood and shaped like a pirate ship.

For a cultural experience: Nan

While most tourists head straight to Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai for their dose of Thai culture, in nearby neighbour Nan you can experience the country’s gilded temples as they should be: in peace and quiet.

The small town is just a one-hour flight from Bangkok and is surrounded by mountains, making every view breathtaking, especially the panorama from Wat Phra That Khao Noi, a hilltop temple with a 9m-tall Buddha blessing the city below. Walking the tree-lined streets is a joy, with restaurants, cafes and galleries tucked into traditional teak houses. On the weekend, Kuang Mueang walking street comes alive for a colourful (and delicious) night market. It’s worth renting a car to get to a hike in one of the province’s seven national parks (Doi Phu Ka borders Laos and has a 2,000m-high mountain, waterfalls, caves and even wild elephants), and Bo Kleua’s natural rock salt wells.

Boats on the bank of Cheow Lan Lake. Photograph: Leigh Griffiths

For natural wonders: Khao Sok

Imagine waking up on a floating raft hut, mist rising off Cheow Lan Lake, with giant limestone karsts and ancient rainforest-covered mountains towering around you.

While Khao Sok is popular with local tourists, it’s almost a secret to foreigners, and you’ll have jungle hikes through Khao Sok national park, lake cruises on longtail boats to hidden limestone caves, canoe journeys along quiet tributaries and wildlife safaris almost to yourself. Stay in one of the floating huts for the true lake experience – 500 Rai is a popular one – or a bungalow in the jungle to feel away from it all. Budget travellers can take an overnight minibus direct from Bangkok, or to get there faster, a one-hour flight to Surat Thani and then a 90-minute transfer to Khao Sok village.

Bangkok beyond the throngs: Bang Krachao

No cars are allowed in Bang Krachao, which helps keep the area peaceful. Photograph: Leigh Griffiths

Bang Krachao is known as the Green Lung of Bangkok – its ample plant life a welcome breath of fresh air from the city’s smog-filled streets. The Chao Praya River curls around the area, making it an island within the city, and no cars are allowed, keeping the isolated neighbourhood clean and quiet. Catch the skytrain to Bang Na and a quick river ferry from Bang Na Pier, then hire bikes at the pier to explore at your own pace. Visit on a weekend to see the island’s Bang Nam Peung floating market, full of traditional Thai desserts, snacks and handicrafts. Cycle to the area’s local temples or the secret gardens of Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan park. And make the Bangkok Tree House a pit stop for lunch, an ice-cold beer or Thai milk tea, or even an overnight stay in its pretty cabins.

• Eloise Basuki is a food and travel writer who has spent time living, working and travelling throughout Thailand.