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I’ve always had a soft spot for those little Bonne Maman fruit cakes that come wrapped in paper – they’re soft-crumbed, and never too dark or dense. This is a quiet ode to them. Then, there’s a deep, buttery richness to pistachios that comes out best when they’re finely ground with flour – the oils release, the texture softens and the flavour becomes more pronounced; the addition of just a little matcha brings a quiet bitterness and depth, enough to hold its own without overpowering. It’s a loaf that feels composed – not flashy, but quietly fragrant with just the right amount of earthiness.
Pistachio and matcha loaf cake (pictured top)
This cake is close-crumbed and tender, and finished with a thin glaze of matcha icing that sets to a soft, pale-green sheen.
Prep 5 min
Cook 1 hr 10 min, plus cooling
Makes 1 450g loaf
150g plain flour
4g baking powder
100g shelled pistachios
3g matcha powder
2g fine sea salt
150g golden caster sugar
150g plant-based milk
20g olive oil
For the matcha icing
30g cocoa butter (deodorised)
20g groundnut oil
100g icing sugar
2g matcha powder, plus extra for sprinkling
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 and put a shelf in the middle of the oven. Line a 450g loaf tin with baking paper, so it overhangs slightly to help with easy removal of the cake later.
Put the flour, baking powder, pistachios, matcha and salt in a food processor and pulse until the pistachios are finely ground and the mixture begins to clump together slightly. This clumping indicates that the oils from the pistachios have been released and are evenly distributed through the dry ingredients.
Pour the sugar, milk and oil into the food processor and pulse again to combine, scraping down the sides to make sure everything gets nicely incorporated. You can also transfer the dry ingredients to a bowl and whisk in the sugar, milk and oil with a balloon whisk until the batter is smooth and lump-free. Take care not to overmix, but do make sure that all the dry ingredients are fully incorporated and there are no streaks.
Pour the batter into the prepared tin and spread it out evenly with a spatula so it has a smooth top. Bake for 45–50 minutes, or until the top is golden and a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Don’t open the oven until at least 35 minutes have passed, otherwise the cake might collapse. The cake should rise slightly and feel springy to the touch.
Remove, leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then use the paper overhang to lift it out. Gently peel off the paper, then put on a rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, make the icing. Melt the cocoa butter in a saucepan on a low heat, then add the oil, icing sugar and matcha and whisk to make a smooth, glossy glaze.
Pour the glaze over the top of the cooled cake on its rack – if need be, use a dry pastry brush to spread it over the cake – then leave at room temperature to set.
The cake can now be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days. For longer storage, wrap it tightly in clingfilm and freeze for up to three months. Defrost at room temperature.
Light fruit cake
Tender and fragrant, with just enough fruit – rum-soaked sultanas, dried cranberries and candied citrus peel – to add interest without overwhelming. The rum is there, too, but only just. This is a fruit cake for people who don’t like fruit cake: light, fragrant and impossible not to finish. You will need a 450g loaf tin.
Prep 5 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 1 hr 10 min, plus cooling
Makes 1 450g loaf
60g raisins
30g dark rum
150g plain flour
5g baking powder
1g fine sea salt
120g plant-based milk
40g groundnut oil
125g golden caster sugar
Finely grated zest of ½ orange
5g vanilla paste
50g candied orange pieces
30g dried cranberries
For the rum water icing
80g icing sugar
10g dark rum
10g water
The night before, put the raisins and rum in a bowl and leave to soak. (If you’re short on time, microwave the raisins and rum in a covered dish for 30 seconds, then let them sit for 30 minutes to absorb the liquid.)
To make the batter, heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 and put a shelf in the middle of the oven. Line a 450g loaf tin with baking paper, ensuring it extends slightly over the edges – this will help with easy removal of the cake once baked.
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl. In a second bowl or jug, whisk the milk, oil, sugar, orange zest and vanilla, mixing until the sugar starts to dissolve. Add the wet ingredients to the dry, then fold in gently until just combined and there are no streaks.
Drain any excess rum from the raisins, then fold them into the batter along with the candied orange pieces and cranberries, so the fruit is evenly distributed throughout the batter.
Pour the batter into the prepared tin, then spread it out evenly with a spatula. Bake for 40–45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean.
Remove, leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then lift it out using the paper overhang to help you. Transfer to a rack and leave to cool completely.
Meanwhile, make the icing. Mix the sugar, rum and water in a small bowl or jug until fully combined and smooth. Once the cake is cool, use a pastry brush generously to dab or brush the glaze over the entire cake, then leave to set for 30-60 minutes. Wrap in clingfilm or store in an airtight container for up to five days.
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These recipes are edited extracts from Beyond Baking, by Philip Khoury, published by Quadrille at £30. To order a copy for £27, visit guardianbookshop.com
