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Among the endless brilliant advice in Jane Grigson’s The Mushroom Feast is a note about size that is really helpful. It is in relation to the cultivated mushrooms readily available in greengrocers and supermarkets, the controlled development of which she reveals to be as every bit as fascinating as the mysterious appearance of wild ones. Grigson reminds us that small button mushrooms are exactly that: small and immature. And, having just formed, they haven’t had the chance to develop flavour, which is why it’s advisable to buy medium-sized mushrooms or, even better, large, open or flat mushrooms that have been given the time to develop real flavour. “Left undisturbed in mushroom caves,” Grigson notes, “cultivated mushrooms can swell to a pound in weight and develop a flavour equal to field mushrooms.”
While out mushroom hunting in the velvet cool of my local supermarket the other day, I was delighted to come across not just one, but several packets of open-faced mushrooms with white caps and delicate brown gills. I might be a novice, but I do know to move slowly and quietly when mushrooms appear, so as not to draw attention, or to give away the spot to other mushroom hunters. Keeping my eyes low, I picked the packets off the shelf, put them in my basket, paid and walked home, making sure to disturb as few leaves as possible. I suspect a neighbour might have been watching me.
Another point Grigson makes is how helpful it is to recognise the role shallots and garlic stewed in butter play in bringing out the flavour of cultivated mushrooms, making them taste like mushrooms, and the kitchen smell good. The Mushroom Feast has also provided this week’s recipe for funghi ripieni (stuffed mushrooms), which is adapted from Ada Boni’s bible of Italian cookery, Il Talismano della Felicità. Like so many stuffed mushroom recipes, it utilises the finely diced stalks in the stuffing, along with onion, garlic, butter, a few minced anchovies, plenty of parsley, soft breadcrumbs and egg, which is vital for binding and also makes the stuffing slightly puffy. If you are lucky enough to find 12 fat-stemmed and bulbous ceps under a tree, they are ideal here; otherwise, eight large or 12 medium flat mushrooms will work almost as well.
While stuffed mushrooms can be eaten at room temperature – or cold, even – they are best when served piping hot, or at least warm enough that the filling is still tender and the mushroom caps velvety and glistening with melted butter. They can be served as an accompaniment to meat or fish, but they are also chief characters that make a satisfying meal with salad alongside – my choice would be the soft middle leaves of a butterhead lettuce dressed with olive oil, red-wine vinegar and mustard. Alternatively, and based on Grigson’s observation of how surprisingly compatible mushroom and cucumber are, you could pair the hot stuffed mushrooms with a cold cucumber, dill and soured cream salad.
Mushrooms stuffed with anchovies, breadcrumbs and herbs
Serves 4
12 medium-sized or 8 large flat mushrooms
A knob of butter, plus extra for greasing and dotting
3 tbsp olive oil
2 shallots or 1 small onion, peeled and finely diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and minced
1 heaped tbsp minced parsley
50g soft white breadcrumbs
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tbsp fine, dry breadcrumbs
Remove the mushroom stalks and chop them very finely; set the caps aside. In a frying pan, melt the butter and olive oil, then gently stew the shallot/onion and garlic until translucent. Add the mushroom stalks and cook, stirring, for about five minutes. Season then add the anchovies and parsley, cook for a minute more, then pull the pan off the heat and stir in the breadcrumbs and beaten egg.
Arrange the mushrooms cap side down in a well-buttered oven dish, then divide the stuffing between the undersides, pressing it down so it fills evenly. Sprinkle the stuffing with the dry breadcrumbs and put a dot of butter on each mushroom.
Bake in a fairly hot oven – about 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5 – for 15-20 minutes, or until the filling is firm and sizzling gently.
