Wanted: surefire recipes for barbecue marinades and sauces | Kitchen aide

5 hours ago 15

What are the best marinades and sauces for a barbecue?
Josie, by email
“Good, well-farmed meat needs none of that nonsense,” insists Richard Turner, co-founder of butcher Turner & George in London. “I want to taste the meat and, if necessary, it should be tenderised by your chosen cooking technique.”

For Josie, though, he’ll go with the flow. First things first, all good marinades have a few things in common: “You need a tenderiser, so citrus juice, vinegar, yoghurt, buttermilk, wine or enzymes [pineapple, papaya],” he says. “These acids work by breaking down the surface collagen and protein in the meat, which tenderises the exterior and lets other flavours penetrate more deeply, while enzymes break down connective tissue.” You’ll then want fat – olive oil, coconut milk, yoghurt – and seasoning – sea salt, fish sauce, soy sauce, miso. “Salt penetrates deep into the meat, breaking down muscle fibres and drawing in liquids, so increasing both moisture and flavour.” You’ve then got garlic, ginger, shallots, herbs, chilli and sweeteners (honey, maple syrup, treacle) to play with.

Specifics are helpful, mind, and a flavoured yoghurt is just the ticket for marinating veg, especially cauliflower or broccoli. “It creates a crusty layer,” says Melissa Thompson, author of Fired Up, who adds a pinch of smoked paprika, cumin and coriander seeds, black pepper and salt. Chicken, meanwhile, “can pretty much take anything”, although, as a tamarind fan, Thompson often takes the sweet and tangy route: “Blend tamarind paste with shallot, garlic, spring onion, lemongrass, lime juice, ginger, soy, cider vinegar and brown sugar.” You’ll not go far wrong with a mix of Jamaican seven-spice or all-purpose seasoning, either, plus the likes of spring onion, garlic, red onion, thyme, ginger, chilli, cider vinegar and vegetable oil.

If sausages are involved, we need Max Halley, who has just written a book on the subject, Cooking with Sausages. “What is quite frankly delicious is marmalade [smooth or coarse], runny honey, wholegrain and dijon mustard, white-wine vinegar and salt all boiled up, stirring all the while, until thick”. Once your sausages are cooked, brush them with this glaze and pop them back on the barbie “for a second or two”. For sausages out of their skins, Halley looks to sunnier climes: “Squish them until they look like a doner kebab, then add a bit of salmoriglio [a Sicilian mix of lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, salt and dried oregano] and grill. And, just before they’re ready to come off, give them a final lick.”

Contrary to Turner’s views on marinades, he “doesn’t mind” a bit of sauce with his barbecued meat, be that ketchup (“it must be Heinz organic”) or HP’s classic woodsmoke BBQ sauce (“don’t look too closely at the ingredients, mind”). If Josie is up for something homemade, meanwhile, try Turner’s “pretty bloody delicious” chipotle ketchup. Simmer 500g chipotle in adobo, 500g chopped tinned tomatoes, 125g chopped onions, 125g tinned apples, chopped, 125ml natural cider vinegar, 10g smoked sea salt and 10g hot smoked paprika for two hours, then pass through a vegetable mouli and return to the pan with 125g muscovado sugar.” Cook, stirring, until thickened, then decant into a sterilised bottle. “Once that’s cool, seal and refrigerate for a few days before using.”

More instant satisfaction could come via a rudimentary coronation sauce, Halley says: “If you’ve got lamby sausages, I love 50:50 yoghurt and mayo, plus loads of curry powder. Or strained yoghurt with peeled and grated cucumber and garlic – now, that is brilliant with anything.”