Women behind the lens: ‘I grew up hating my natural hair. But I transformed that pain into something empowering’

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This image represents the strong bond I have with my little sister Florencia. We grew up with a very deep connection, and I consider her my best friend. I create sculptural hairstyles using my natural hair as a material. I add some extensions, and shape it with thread and wire.

A sculpture can take me from 30 minutes to more than six hours. Each hairstyle is based on an idea or message I want to convey, then I construct it step by step before photographing it myself with my camera and tripod. My book, Love and Justice, combines images of these sculptures with my reflections on feminism, identity and women’s experiences.

Growing up in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire, I was surrounded by beauty standards influenced by colonial history, where straight hair was often seen as more beautiful. I was four when I was given my first hair relaxer – by my mom. You can’t blame parents. Everyone was using hair relaxer; no one questioned it. But it really affected how I saw myself at a young age.

I grew up hating my natural hair. But over time, I have transformed that pain into something empowering that celebrates my roots and my identity. By placing myself at the centre of my images, I want people who look like me to see that they belong in art and are worthy of representation.

The choice to photograph only myself has always been very personal. So this image is special as one of the rare times I have sculpted someone else’s hair. But it is my little sister. She feels like an extension of me, so it still feels intimate and natural within my practice.

I wanted to create something that visually expresses connection and support. It took several hours to create, because I had to carefully sculpt both hairstyles so they could interact and hold their shape. In Côte d’Ivoire, you only allow close and trusted people to do your hair because people believe anyone can use your hair to spiritually attack you, so me styling my sister’s hair shows the trust we have for each other.

I created this image for the part of my book about sisterhood. My relationships with women are extremely strong. Not always easy, but always meaningful. My little sister is my first example of that. She has always supported me, believed in me, and helped me grow. I try to do the same for her.

Being a big sister is something I deeply value. Watching Florencia grow, follow her dreams, and knowing I can inspire her is one of my greatest achievements.

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